It’s the time in North Central Texas when freezing weather still threatens, but warm days beckon us to garden! While blooms are imminent, February is still prime time for completing chores that will protect plants and prepare them for spring’s new growth.

Early greening and growth are especially common in iris, roses, salvias, winter-sown annuals and cannas, all of which can be damaged by a sudden freeze. Avoid cutting back fresh green iris fans that appear in midwinter. The foliage helps to protect the rhizomes, which sit close to the soil’s surface and are vulnerable to rapid temperature changes. If you have not done so, add a light layer of mulch around the iris clumps, being careful not to smother them. Mulch stabilizes soil temperatures. If bloom stalks are evident and a hard freeze is predicted, covering iris beds with frost cloth can add a few degrees of protection.

Salvias, particularly woody or semi-woody types like autumn sage, benefit from a handsoff approach during winter warm spells. Early green growth should not be pruned back after a freeze even if it looks blackened or limp. The damaged growth can shield the plant from further cold; remove damage in spring. Salvias also appreciate mulch, which protects their roots thereby reducing long term decline.

For annuals grown from seed, such as larkspur or poppies, protection depends on their stage of growth. Established cool season annuals generally recover once temperatures rebound. Mulch moderates soil temperatures during seed germination. However, once seedlings have emerged, they are far more vulnerable than more developed plants. Row cover or frost cloth can significantly improve survival. If seedlings are damaged, resist the urge to replant too soon.

Cannas are often among the first tropical-looking plants to push new shoots during warm winters, but that early growth is extremely tender. If shoots emerge prior to an expected freeze, try mulching the emerging growth to insulate the rhizomes. If tender new growth is damaged, simply cover it with mulch until the weather moderates.

Don’t be in a rush to cut back plants that appear freeze-damaged or dead. Plants benefit from leaving the freeze damage in place until all danger of frost is past — about mid-March. Remember, what appears to be dead after a freeze may simply be dormancy.

Roses often break dormancy early during mild winters, sending out soft new shoots that are easily damaged by cold. It’s best not to prune in response. Damaged tissue can protect healthy canes until temperatures stabilize. On the other hand, proper February care is essential for roses grown in North Central Texas. Pruning about mid-month not only shapes the plants, but reduces disease pressure and improves flowering. Delay this pruning if hard freezes are on the horizon, but act fast when warm days arrive.

Begin by removing all dead, damaged or diseased rose canes. These are often dark, shriveled or brittle and should be cut back to healthy green tissue. Next, eliminate crossing canes and any weak, spindly growth. Open the center of the plant to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration, which will help mitigate diseases.

Next, prune according to the rose type. Always use sanitized tools! Climbing roses and early spring bloomers such as Lady Banks roses should not be heavily pruned now. Instead, remove dead wood and tie healthy canes to supports, saving major pruning until after the spring bloom. For hybrid teas and modern roses, reduce their overall height by about a third to a one-half. This stimulates vigorous canes and abundant blooms. Shrub roses and antique (old-fashioned) roses need less severe pruning; simply focus on shaping, thinning and removing winter damage. Make cuts about ¼ inch above an outward-facing bud, angling the cut slightly away from the bud to shed water. Delay fertilization until new growth begins in spring.

These strategies will help to protect plants in erratic weather and prepare them for a healthy, thriving spring and summer season.

Written and Photographed by LGMG Phyllis Webster